There was a lot of Gianfranco Ferre' aka "Artchitect of Fashion" and female power-broker in the spring summer 2014 women's collection that Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron served up here, at the tail-end of fashion week.
A bold, structured sartorial approach transformed pantsuits and evening gowns into impressive pieces of origami artwork.
Showing off their knack for belts and accessories, most looks were cinched at the waist with stitched ribbons in oval knots and abstractly knotted obi belts -- an upgraded, new-and-improved version of past seasons.
A sense of what the brand calls "aesthetic formality" was achieved with "absolutely no-frills" geometric sharpness, asymmetric layers and altitudinous slits -- calling to mind the monumental high-rises that shape the New York evening skyline.
Attention to luxuriant materials was paramount: silk cady, gazar, hammered silk and enver satin, highlighted occasionally with a touch of lurex glitters for jumpsuits. The color palette was dominated by pearl grey, white, midnight blue, with a touch of chlorophyll green.
Overall, the design duo, greeted by a hearty applause after the show, succeeded in perpetuating the brand's DNA (once again) and propelling it into the future, which begs the question: What would these two be capable of doing with their own label, with their own DNA?