Gucci: The Art of Whimsical Seduction

When it comes to seductive whimsy, Alessandro Michele is nailing it. Creative director at Gucci since January 2015 (where he made a U-turn of a debut), the designer has so coined a look and reborn a house that it’s almost hard to think back before him. Before slippers and sequins, pussy-bows and pearls, before bejewelled hands with so many rings on so many fingers, and jaunty romanticism. Because everyone’s been seduced now. Even though it was marching up to 30 degrees today in Milan, that’s not going to let a faithful Gucci fan fail to slip their feet into some of its now synonymous fuzzy slippers.

 

​​The Gucci menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show, Milan, by Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION

 

What Michele manages to do is blend Mods with Matadors, Little Bo Peep with Biba, Oscar Wilde with rockers, street with sensitivity, men with lace tights to create an era and sense of plundered past entirely his own. Somehow, it all works together and makes whichever seemingly imaginary century from which it’s conjured the best to have lived in. Oh! It’s ours. Lucky us!

 

 

Today’s collection picked up from where yesterday left off in terms of prevalent Milan themes: travel. And the idea in fact being as per described above for show notes that described “traces of otherness, echoes of spaces, crossed or imagined.” His cast of characters – for they were exactly that and a celebration of individuality, another hallmark of the Gucci 2.0 – paraded out in vivid prints, tuxedos and kimonos, lounge robes and cropped trousers, knitted tank vests which sparkled in all the right places.

 

​The Gucci menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show, Milan, by Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION

 

They were poets and pianists, icons from history; they were Velma Dinkley or Rhett Butler. Their clothes were from everywhere and styled to Gucci effect – “the Gucci effect” now a commonly in use and understood fashion terminology. What that means is magpie dressing. Shiny things, lots of things, vintage things, characterful things: trophy dressing. And it’s caught on.

 

​The Gucci menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show, Milan, by Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION

 

In the realms of womenswear, we’ve seen the tables turn from sober androgyny and normcore in recent years into exploring the dressing up box, learning how to have fun, breaking the seasons, the cycle – this idea of trends. Because, essentially, when you look at a Gucci collection, season after season, this is the same thing you see. That’s not a criticism. And it certainly shouldn’t be – people are going mad for it so why change it? And in a fashion system and world where everything feels unsteady and confused, surely this is the time you want to turn to a brand and see what you know and what you love? And it’s not like you have to do it head-to-toe, perhaps the most genius part of it all. Worn as one, a look says Gucci. Torn apart and a piece looks equally Gucci. And whether it’s worn by a girl or a boy, it says Gucci. That’s smart. It’s a brand with an anatomy.

 


The Gucci menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show, Milan, by Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION

 

Next year, Gucci will adopt a one show per season policy, streamlining its menswear and womenswear. It’s a move that makes total sense. Especially given the overriding gender neutrality of the new Gucci aesthetic.

 

Read our latest fashion reports with our exclusive coverage of Milan menswear fashion week in NOWMagazine.

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