Hermès is all about clean lines, a firm cut and zen outlook. Veronique Nichanian, the head designer of menswear is a very underrated talent but then her style is to make clothes that are understated which she does so perfectly that she skates just under the radar which probably pleases the Hermès customer who likes to do the same. Every angle, line and shape of a Hermès jacket, shirt or trousers has been carefully considered, accessories are never cumbersome and never clog the overall silhouette which is poised.
With Hermès fabrics are always a big part of the story, the family owned company always researches the most high grade materials on earth and this season alligator, that’s been treated until it’s as soft and pliable as fabric was used on bags, shoes, shirts and trousers. Two large chunky knits preceded a sleek cardigan that was doubtlessly made with cashmere wool. Ending the show came velvet suits, a theme in menswear this season and chez Hermès the velvet suit comes in burgundy, dark indigo and aubergine, is double and single breasted and always with that slim cut trouser.
To illuminate her sartorial story Nichanian chose a wide range of models of all ages and colour. There was a slight nod to a rock'n'roll edge, a couple of models had beautifully scruffy hair or beards but moreover the vibe was classic elegance; well naturally, it's Hermès.
- Sarah Hay