After three years as the womenswear designer at Hermès, designer Christophe Lemaire’s final collection for the company was an elegantly fading sunset of a show.
During his tenure at the house, which sits on the pinnacle of understated luxury, Lemaire has proven himself to be a skillful holder of the Hermès torch. The easy elegance of his collections while at the brand will have a lot of clientele following Lemaire as he now turns all his focus on his signature label. Adding Lemarie looks to their already impressive panoply of Hermès pieces.
A wardrobe that will certainly also have to make room for quite a number of the exquisite pieces the designer presented on the sand-strewed Hermès catwalk on the last day of Paris Fashion Week.
The sophisticated quiet of this ultimate collection spoke in a sartorial sotto voce that articulated just how gracefully designed garments can attain a superior level of chic nonchalance.
The perfection of a round collared tunic-like cream colored coat. The meticulous way a coat or cotton top would unfurl into a scarf collar to wrap effortlessly around the neck. The ease of a white cotton shirt dress or tent dresses in eyelet lace or luxe suede, embellished with an oversized horse head Hermès scarf print motif, also had a “slip on and go” simplicity to them that felt modern.
Deceptively simple looking, too, was a diamond patterned cardigan that on up close inspection showed the motif to have been crafted out of slices of leather embossed to look like crocodile skin. While a number of pleated skirts cut with a central section finishing an inch or two longer than the rest of the garment gave the classic design an asymmetrical edginess that was rather alluring.
This was a beautiful swan song for Lemaire. And it bodes well for the future of his own brand as well.