How The Hoodie Became Fashion Week’s Must-Have

Whether you have been avidly following fashion news for the last few years or occasionally reading over it for the last few months, it’s unlikely – let’s go ahead and say impossible – that you missed the Vetements phenomenon, or the phenomenon that is Vetements. Since its first collection in 2014, its sudden popularity and rapid ascent has resulted in a consistent and unique influence. Now granted Vetements’ head designer and spokesperson Demna Gvasalia’s previous design experience before this sudden rise included senior responsibilities for Maison Margelia and Louis Vuitton (under Marc Jacobs). But considering the time it generally takes for designers to bubble up to such popularity, it’s hard to believe that Vetement’s iconic pullover hoodie debuted exactly this time two years ago. It’s perhaps even harder to believe that these hoodies are sold for close to $1200 and that they pretty much sell like hotcakes.

 


Vêtements Fall/Winter 2016 show, Paris (by Regis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)

 

Even as this is being published, there is no denying the sweeping impact Vetements continues to have on the fashion industry. So much so that designers at New York Fashion Week have bought into the youthful and street-inspired ways of the Paris-based label.

 


Yeezy by Kanye West Season 4, New-York (Courtesy of PR)

 

The unofficial first day of NYFW saw Kanye drop the first hoodie of the season – but that was possibly to be expected, even if it did sway away from an ominous, black hue. Either way, it was well present, elongated sleeves and all, further validating the hoodie as a catwalk staple. Some might even go as far as saying – when observing the different Yeezy Seasons – that Mr. West re-appropriated it as a staple for his own designs.

 


VFiles ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2017 show, New-York (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

 

Just a few hours later, at Vfiles, it was Ground Zero who used the street-inspired silhouette as a vehicle for front-and-center graphics (namely a bright and bold anime design) and accentuated the waist to highlight the extra volume floating around. A new twist was there, agreed, but so was the clearly recognizable influence.

 


Tommy Hilfiger ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2016 show, New-York (by Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION)

 

And even when the lines of that specific oversized design are not as easily (or immediately) identifiable, the fact that such a simple – and until then considered by many overly basic – piece of clothing has infiltrated so many collections can probably be credited to Vetements’ influence. In fact, it’s hard to recall any other particular piece of clothing that has transcended the high-low paradigm in such a way: referencing and appropriating the once racially and socially charged garment and catapulting it onto the torsos of models and bloggers alike. Such, for instance, was the case at Tommy Hilfiger’s show Thursday night, where for various reasons it felt most out of place, yet somehow worked because of how familiar it felt – in part probably due to the fact that nowadays we often see models wearing a hoodie while “off duty." Gigi Hadid closed the show in a long-sleeve hoodie with the iconic throwback Hilfiger color codes, but not before showing a strictly Vetements-inspired piece with side sleeve slogan statements.

 


left: Baja East Spring/Summer 2017 show, New-York / right: Band of Outsiders Spring/Summer 2017 show, New-York (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

 

Today was no exception either and the list of designers who continue to fuel the hoodie’s notoriety grew a little longer as both Baja East and Band of Outsiders incorporated similar styles – or at the very least variations of it – in their collections. So for the time being, it’s safe to assume the hoodie is set to reappear as the week unfolds, and that Vetements’ ripple will continue to travel across certain of NFWS’s shows. What isn’t all that certain, however, is whether designers will actually be able to continue selling basic pieces at such high-end price tags.

 

Read our latest fashion features and trend reports in NOWMagazine

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
A Verdict on Digital Fashion Week
By Fabio Ciquera
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations,...
By Fabio Ciquera
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations, online happenings and symposia. One cannot accuse luxury houses to lack inventiveness, and there is a genuine appreciation for the quick turnaround in moving everything online. From Loewe to Prada and...
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations, online happenings and symposia. One cannot accuse luxury houses to lack inventiveness, and there is a genuine appreciation for the quick turnaround in moving everything online. From Loewe to Prada and Dior, among the many names, the creative solutions have been exciting to watch. This new reality...
Revival LDN: The Upcycled Fashion Brand Aiming At Helping the Environment
By Alice Ierace
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through...
By Alice Ierace
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through research and proposals, have tried to lessen the fashion industry’s huge impact on the environment. However, despite the efforts, many are still the fast-fashion brands ignoring the issue. The problem is...
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through research and proposals, have tried to lessen the fashion industry’s huge impact on the environment. However, despite the efforts, many are still the fast-fashion brands ignoring the issue. The problem is that, no matter how sustainable they deem they are, we are still living in a fast-paced environment...
Reflections on Life post Lockdown at MFW
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021...
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021 and Women’s Resort 2021 collections with an informal gathering at Milan’s iconic Four Seasons Hotel. “We are finally back together, in the garden of this iconic hotel, in the heart of Milan’s...
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021 and Women’s Resort 2021 collections with an informal gathering at Milan’s iconic Four Seasons Hotel. “We are finally back together, in the garden of this iconic hotel, in the heart of Milan’s Montenapoleone district. We want to highlight that we are a family, that Etro is a family living in a world...
White Mountaineering Brings Back BLK Line
By Elisa Carassai
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese...
By Elisa Carassai
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese designer Yosuke Aizawa. This season, the designer not only presented an exclusive film directed by Daito Manabe from the Rhizomatiks, but he also decided to relaunch his original BLK line. Launched in 2009,...
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese designer Yosuke Aizawa. This season, the designer not only presented an exclusive film directed by Daito Manabe from the Rhizomatiks, but he also decided to relaunch his original BLK line. Launched in 2009, White Mountaineering’s BLK Line proposed a new feel to outdoor wear with high-spec textiles and...
Digital Meets Local at Sunnei
By Elisa Carassai
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo were supposed to move in their newly-bought building, Casa Sunnei. Not being able to move in, and stuck quarantining home, the duo started reflecting on what they could do to move forward, at a slower...
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo were supposed to move in their newly-bought building, Casa Sunnei. Not being able to move in, and stuck quarantining home, the duo started reflecting on what they could do to move forward, at a slower pace.  “During the lockdown, I realized we were moving at a pace that was too fast - we were...
A Play of Poetics at MFW
By Elisa Carassai
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM, with a film celebrating the new Milanese generation of young creatives, as well as the joy of life post-lockdown. Inspired by writer Isabella Santacroce’s book Fluo: Storie di...
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM, with a film celebrating the new Milanese generation of young creatives, as well as the joy of life post-lockdown. Inspired by writer Isabella Santacroce’s book Fluo: Storie di Giovani a Riccione (“Fluo: Stories of Young People in Riccione”) – who also happens to be from...
Purity and Tradition Intertwine at MFW
By Alice Ierace
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the...
By Alice Ierace
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the announcement back in February stating that Raf Simons would become the brand’s new co-creative director, today we were lucky enough to witness Miuccia’s last solo collection – her final bow after three...
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the announcement back in February stating that Raf Simons would become the brand’s new co-creative director, today we were lucky enough to witness Miuccia’s last solo collection – her final bow after three decades of unforgettable shows.Of course, a simple presentation wasn’t in the plan – it needed that...
Auralee’s Imaginary Journey Through Time
By Alice Ierace
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer...
By Alice Ierace
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer 21 collection during digital Paris Fashion Week as one of the major independent fashion brands.As a brand, Auralee is renowned for its magnificent clean silhouettes, impeccable quality and minimal...
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer 21 collection during digital Paris Fashion Week as one of the major independent fashion brands.As a brand, Auralee is renowned for its magnificent clean silhouettes, impeccable quality and minimal styling. Its aim? A full exploration into the development of their own fabrics. By taking inspiration...