Jonathan Saunders Menswear Spring Summer 2014 London
Set in a dimmed underground room at the London Film Museum, Saunders’ menswear presentation was a fluorescent, neo-noir affair. With bold arrows marking the floor and neon Lynch-esque city images flickering on alternate walls, the atmosphere perfectly captured this Saunders’ latest protagonist: a restless, sharply-dressed city slicker taking on the hyper mediated metropolis; “Patrick Bateman in Tokyo” in the words of the designer.
Obsessively neat trim suits and short-sleeved shirts were shot through with synthetic colour and ombre effects and a fusion of mixed media. Plastics, polka dots and stripes melded onto prints covered the otherwise clean cut looks and sharp tailoring, continuing Saunders’ distinct the-city-is-my-playground vibe from last season. Even in a paint box palette, which extended even to the soles of pointed-toe brogues and the coloured lenses of glasses, the operative word for each look was smart. It’s something Saunders is an indisputable master of; capturing a city’s industrial flow of images and noise into intelligent covetable clothes, with even the most common garment and accessory transformed into a one-of-a-kind statement piece. Whether picking the shiny yellow bomber or a colour-blocked work suitcase, you are certain to stand out in the right way.
- Maria Dimitrova