Jonathan Saunders Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 London
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There's something romantic about showing at the museum. The collection immediately feels elevated and the acoustics are ideal for maximum impact. Jonathan Saunders showed his Spring Summer 15 collection at the British Museum in Bloomsbury, following his previous one at Tate Britain. As always, Saunders scored high on showmanship. Giant flood lights shone on the circular runway as models walked with operatic gravity, meaning each step they took. Pity the view was obscured amidst the standing crowd, and all that was visible were the occasional glimpses of balloon skirts and appliqués that shimmered in the light. There was certainly an air of the ancient, befitting of the setting.

Upon closer inspection, the collection was indeed beautiful. The palette of earthy browns, sky blue, turquoise and gold lamé was a nice progression from his Day-to-Night presentation at London Collections: Men in June. The notable difference was the improvisational quality of the styling and the hybrid nature of the garments. The segmenting of the form with different textures and print created a tension between familiar contemporary dressing and something more primordial and organic. Utilitarian suits, cinched at the waist with a bow, provided an unexpected twist of femininity while pin stripe cropped tops were paired with more unstructured draped trousers. Perhaps there
was even something quite 40's about the silhouette and the below-the-knee hemline of the skirts, especially in the more structured looks. Despite the cerebral nature of the show, Saunders' play on the idea of fossils -- especially through the leaf imprints on the textiles, which contrasted with the more three-dimensional foliage -- was keenly felt.

The absence of a press release at the show seemed to suggest that Jonathan Saunders isn't a fan of his collections being dissected for meaning. True enough, this one didn't seem to be based on a linear narrative at all; rather, merely a visual diary of sorts. The show closed to a thunderous applause -- strong even by the museum's acoustic standards, and all seemed to agree that it was a visual treat, for those lucky enough to view it in full.

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