With Julien Macdonald, it was as ever a crystal-dripping, evening-only affair, aptly preceded by paparazzi flashes of the celebrity-filled front row, doubly reflected in the mirrored runway at his spring/summer 2014 show. Set in the regally gilded Goldsmith’s hall, tiered chandeliers above and plush carpet underfoot, it made for a fitting setting of the high-octane and glittering gowns that hit the catwalk.

Perhaps inspired by his experience on the judging panel of Strictly Come Dancing, MacDonald ‘s collection was drenched in sequins and shimmering fishnet knits, made for the showgirl at heart. Worn by uber-glam nymphs in towering heels and smudged glowing make-up, the floor-sweeping dresses came in rich gold and silver mosaics, pale-pink satin and nude cobweb sheers that seemed to almost melt on the body. The artistry was concentrated precisely on the beaded and knitted patterns and cutouts, which cleverly accentuated and caressed the body; some perhaps too much, leading several models no choice but to hoist up their trains.

The most striking were the thin fishnet gowns shot through with thorn-like details that looked almost transcendent; others, however, drowned in crystals, slipped over to over-embellished and gaudy territory. Then again, Julien Macdonald’s girl is all about assertive sex appeal, lavishing in its own exuberant flamboyance, and that is exactly what the whole show, with its confetti-rain finale, added up to. No prudes allowed.

– Maria Dimitrova