Junya Watanabe Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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If you start to get the hang of Junya Watanabe’s aural hints, his shows become slightly easier to grapple with. Japanese punk-rock tracks as musical backdrop today prefigured his approaching an item that he has grappled with before.

The iconic biker was given a new moment on the runway, referencing in a vague way the designer’s fall-winter 2011 collection. But there was a form of rebellion against this arch-staple of the rebel. It was being colonized by a medley of panels slapped on with Watanabe’s surgically precise eye to recreate but kept its signature neckline throughout.

A deluxe punk, Watanabe’s shaggy haired woman, patchworked her wardrobe from nubbly tweeds, bright check fabrics, leather and the punky material par excellence, denim. As the end neared, black gradually crept into the collection, and Watanabe took the route of opposing fabric weights for a subtle tonal effect. It invoked a softer image, more a grown-up Punky Brewster than Hell’s Angel but there were more sophisticated pieces. The subtle enhancing of hips as if bustled created a silhouette on a coat, a multitude of zips slashed a fitted trench coat and a full length leather dress was a sultry proposal. Points for the cape, also in leather and once again a key piece of the season for many designers.

On the topic of leather, bags caught our attention by their distinctive shapes, and with good reason. Half of them were Loewe’s Amazona, tricked out with tweed and to be available at Comme des Garçons and Loewe stores, while the other half, shoulder-bags in rounder shapes made of leather pieces artfully sewn together by Loewe’s artisans will be exclusive to Watanabe.

As finale, a booming male voice spoke roughly in Japanese, most of it unintelligible to those not fluent, save for the word kuso (also a four-letter word in English) ringing out like a shot. She may have a lady bag but punk’s definitely not dead.

- Lily Templeton

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