Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are starting to become the P.T. Barnum and James Anthony Bailey of the fashion world. And while the runway shows for Kenzo might not be The Greatest Show on Earth just yet, they are certainly doing their damnedest to raise the bar in terms of production value that is primed for social media platforms.
The spark for the fall/winter 2015 season came from the wilderness and, more specifically, trees. The duo updated that idea by making their forest out of a monolithic green wall placed at the back of a giant, empty hanger on the outskirts of Paris. But then as the first model, dressed in tent-like layers of green and black, began to walk down the runway, the wall followed her. As it neared the end of the catwalk, it slowly broke up to reveal more nature lover garb and simultaneously became movable Stonehenge-like trees that then ceaselessly spun and circled and trailed the models as they made their way around the catwalk.
When not distracted by the impressive moving parts of the perfectly orchestrated mise-en-scène, this collection had a lot going for it. The oversized shearling vests worn with fluid, long dresses looked perfect for right now; when the sun is shining but it's not warm enough just yet to go sans manteau. Brightly patterned loose knitwear and wraps will also give refuge next season, while the owl feather-shaped ornamentation that lined up to make stripy fringe on trousers and baby doll tops added a playful "editorial" element into the mix.
This collection might have gotten a bit lost among the trees during the shows, but when it hits the racks next season, fans of the brand will beat a path to the label's stores to find it.