On Sunday morning Lanvin reaffirmed the notion that men’s fashion is moving in a more sober direction; a path where sophisticated tailoring and urban functionality both rise up to meet in the middle to produce garments that exude a sense of unpresumptuous modernity.
“This time we asked ourselves the question, ‘what is more important, the image or the clothes, reality or provocation’,” said Lucas Ossendrijver, the creative director of Lanvin Homme. “And that question changed the way we work and changed the way we do the show."
That shift resulted in a collection that had an androgynous allure about it. Full cut, high waisted trousers, roomy overcoats, long suit jackets and square shaped tops all expunged anatomy. The dark color palette of charcoal and dove gray along with black, chocolate brown and burgundy also added to this collection’s ability to blend into its future winter surroundings.
“The first group was about uniforms, which is kind of like the past, the end is black and kind of futuristic and everything that is in the middle is individuality,” enighted Ossendrijver. “Those groups, that is the story, those are the things that are important. It’s not about provocation or normcore normality. I mean is normal bad for you, is normal bad for the image? Can they coexist? Is there a right way to do something for everybody?”
That type of thinking put this collection lock step in line with Lanvin’s spring/summer 2015 womenswear collection, which was shown last October. It too was trying to find a way to offer something for everyone. The difference here was that the attempt to please all sorts of men with this show somehow diluted the potency of the designs.
Perhaps the answer to Ossendrijver’s question - at least for the men- is in fact that no, it isn’t possible to do something for everyone…but almost everyone.