On Friday morning designer Jonathan Anderson got down to brass tacks with his sophomore womenswear collection for the Spanish luxury brand Loewe.
Last season's fabric remnant covered clothes — which generated a lot of press but perhaps not as many sales — and made way for a collection filled with more wearable and yet just as directional offerings. In truth, there were two distinct directions the designer pulled from for this show: an undeniable look back at the silhouettes of the ‘80s that was spliced with an atmosphere of scientific futurism.
The by-product of this Buckaroo Banzai blend was a sartorial offering that looked completely neoteric. Each piece, from the slouchy wide-legged trousers and the colorful geometric long coats through the metallic pleated skirts and tops cut from a leather patchwork of different-colored bands, conveyed a unique and cool sartorial perspective.
Anderson, who has been quoted as someone who doesn't read show reviews but rather listens to the sales tallies in the Loewe stores to help guide his hand, also let loose on the accessories. These have always been the bread and butter for the house and they will remain so for the foreseeable future, thanks to the numerous brightly-hued puzzle bags, some cute clutch bouquet bags with multicolored petals, and envelope purses. Not to mention the large squared-off retro sunglasses, leaf motif jewelry, geometric belts and sporty striped-toed boots.
When the final model finished her turn in the concrete garden of the Le Cobusier-designed UNESCO building, Anderson had presented the fashion industry with a glimpse of a brave new world. One that is absolutely worth exploring further.