For the final collection under Stuart Vevers’ artistic direction, Loewe preferred the intimate setting for their head offices in Paris, just a stone’s throw away from the Grand Palais and their avenue Montaigne flagship. The appointment of London-based J.W. Anderson came as a quasi-surprise, but first things first: Vevers isn’t gone yet.
As part of the winding down process, the Skin collection only featured accessories, focusing on what is Loewe’s specialty, the work on leather hides. And for one who is about to travel to new horizons, Vevers designed bags that can be collapsed and stored flat, with two new designs joining the collection: the Origami cube (a double handle cube shape with a shoulder strap) and the Origami pillow (which has buckles on the base to create its “normal” shape). Their hand has also been carefully chosen, velvety nubuck and a washed, satiny calf hide that has the appeal of healthy glowing skin. Tiny versions of all the new bags appeal for their minute size and intricate details, little accessories that show the puffed up shape of their larger counterparts.
Exotic leathers are also featured on the shawls, opening a new inroad in the animal print trend, with chocolaty scales printed onto soft cashmere shawls. A slight twist, but an attractive one nonetheless.
The summer espadrille receives the ultimate update as a python and coated ropes variation, as well as more classic ones in leather and nubuck.
As a whole, these abbreviated accessories offering shied away from anything too complex – the hammered silver accessories and the perforated leathers of the season’s Amazonia not withstanding – and will certainly weather the interim period quite well.
In many ways, it was the perfect goodbye for Vevers: short, sweet and leaving a lasting mark behind. For J.W. Anderson, big shoes to step into, but from the raves the new designer gets on his own, we’re willing to bet they’ll be those comfortable python espadrilles.