At Loewe, three-quarters or so of the show saw the Reus film as the soundtrack to the collection before music finally set in. It was at times distracting, the shipwrecked models literally lost to the attention of this semi-installation. But Jonathan Anderson has always been one to collaborate and experiment, explore and push new ways of doing things. [CONTINUE READING...]
The video on the big screen revealed the provenance of the Loewe woman. A tempestuous sea immortalised by the artist Magali Reus. An expanse of water from which emerge the conceptual mermaids created by JW Anderson, Creative Director of the LVMH owned Spanish maison. Dresses bleached by the sun, unfinished details. The sinuous silhouettes, seen in the Fall collection, sweep past. Dresses with pronounced waists and exaggerated shoulders. Embellished, wrinkled and compressed fabrics all move freely in ultra-high splits. Soft and airy volumes, lace and ruche, underwear references. From a visual patchwork of patterns to micro graphic prints and block colours, which are never invasive. All underpinned by sharp accessories, like the contrasting two-tone rigid leather belt, Victorian corsair boots, Trompe-l’œil shoe-boots. A romantic mood lifted the room decorated with old fashioned pieces of design. Objects to be worn like keepsakes. The lucky charm necklace in the shape of a bat, ceramic bracelets, metal calla lilies on wrists and ankles and never go out of bloom.
by Stefano Roncato - MFFashion