London Fashion Week in 3D: Dance & Design & Demons

Talking points (including whether there will or won’t be a menswear fashion week in the capital next season) abounded over the past few days of the menswear shows in London – some more worthy than others. Here are three worth noting.

Lose Yourself to Dance

Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.

Choreography seems to be having a moment. Not only has Maria Grazia Chiuri used dance as the theme of the new Spring/Summer 2019 campaign for Dior, but casting an eye across the credits sheets of the menswear shows these past few days (Art School and Loverboy among them) and it became almost a prerequisite to see “choreographer” or “choreography by” listed among the more traditional makeup artists, stylists, and casting director titles. Let’s see where this takes us…

The Return of Tailoring

Details of the Edward Crutchley Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.

In a backlash against street style, streetwear, sportswear, and social media everything, we began to see a move towards sharper shapes and tailoring at the menswear shows. Real clothes seem to be resonating once more and front of the pack is Edward Crutchley, who presented a suit-filled collection that took his signature fluid silhouettes and rendered them in pinstripe and pronounced shoulders.

Raving About: Kiko Kostadinov and Stefan Cooke

Kiko Kostadinov Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.

Both are buzzed about names: the former the more experienced as creative director of Mackintosh’s premium line Mackintosh 001 as well as his own eponymous label; the latter the new and up-and-coming H&M prize-winning Fashion East duo, Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt, who presented their third collection with the support platform this season.

Kostadinov is known for a layered take on the menacing and the romantic; a little bit tech, a little bit of tailoring and a little bit bohemian, the designer’s storybook beasts this season conjured up something rather Birdbox (the Sandra Bullock-starring film that’s been causing quite the stir on Netflix over the festive period), with an intimidating otherness. Compelling creatively and beyond, remove the awesome headpieces – matted hair bedecked in jewels – and there’s still reason to want to look twice.

Stefan Cooke's Fall/Winter 2019 collection at the Fashion East show in London. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.

Stefan Cooke, meanwhile, was in the party mood, keen to celebrate the beginning of a new chapter for the emerging brand which has drawn to a close its time with Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East initiative. Taking time to look back over what they’ve achieved so far, the duo presented a brilliantly edited collection that cemented their ideas and style to date into wearable and clever pieces – the elasticated split leathers and outerwear were standout, and this was a collection that saw them take on a new level of sophistication.