If rumours are to be believed, changes are afoot in the menswear design team at Louis Vuitton but let's wait for the luxury brand to make its own announcement before calling it. A whopping forty-seven looks walked the long, dark runway where spotlights picked out the models who presented a collection of clothes that took in all ages of the Louis Vuitton man.
The show notes mentioned David Lynch and the Amish as inspirations, of which designer Paul Helbers adhered to only loosely to but true enough, Lynchian minimalism or Amish sartorial piety was present via cut away collars and hidden fastenings on jackets throughout. Trousers were loose and stopped at the ankle although to be fair, this collection offered a bit of something for everyone.
Key trends were acknowledged: Shearling coats, a palette of grey punctuated by flashes of bright red or orange (see also Gustavo Lins AW12) and creativity with feather filled Puffa paneling (see also Walter Van Bierendonck AW12).
A velvet jacket stamped entirely with Louis Vuitton patterns, accessorized by a large, see-me! gold clasp on a man bag didn't feel Amish but it was hard to feel pedantic when the model was wearing such a cool pair of shades! The matte, plastic framed sunglasses came in granite, beige or red and the high-bridged, futuristic feel of the design made them very covetable. Along with the tailored jackets that had puffa coats hanging around the legs – fantastic to see Puffa quilting liberated from the domains of sportswear - the sunglasses were amongst the star pieces of the show.
Soundtrack: Thomas Trux, In Heaven & In Dreams. Kris Jensen, Torture. Angelo Badalamenti, Twin Peaks & Mulholland Drive. Ricky Nelson, Lonesome Town. David Bowie, I Took A Trip On A Gemini Spaceship.