Lucio Vanotti Menswear Fall Winter 2016 Milan
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The courage not to bend to the market rules, strongly pursuing personal research, has definitely rewarded LucioVanotti,  who was chosen by Giorgio Armani to debut in his theatre, giving proof of expressive and aesthetic growth. His models are imaginary soldiers who, after the end of the world war, have taken shelter in pillboxes on the English Channel, representing both spirituality and beauty. His research is aimed at the essence, dressing men who are looking for the meaning of life and things, through the research of outfits. Hence the necessity to purify and subtract, to recreate separation and introspection. His work, as Lucio himself likes to describe as “relaxed strictness,” is inspired by intellectuals from the past such as Johannes Itten, master of the studies of color in the Bauhaus school. The items become archetypes of themselves: the military blankets turn into tunics, the pinstriped tracksuits are as soft as pajamas, and outerwear pieces are treated as night-gowns. Fabrics are soft and slippery, such as woolen cloth, comfort wool, corduroy, cotton, and fleece in the dusty colors of the desert: ocher, black, ecru, military green, with touches of sage green and navy. The tailor manufacturing recalls the idea of the military uniforms, functional and modular; the lines have a raw purity, highlighted by pinstriped suits as well as the other patterns – a kind of palette that could also be interpreted as an homage to master Giorgio Armani, who LucioVanotti himself has thanked through an amusing projection at the end of the show.

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