Out came the coats- tailored in soft cashmeres, angora, leather, and pinstripes. It was, as usual, a veritable feast of outerwear offerings in the Fall Winter 2012 Max Mara show. A croc-printed leather version gave way to more classic ankle-length versions, a familiar brand staple, and then to shorter, sharper styles that went all the way to sporty with a hood (paired with a lounge-y pajama ensemble). But the collection was not made for play. Inspired by a film with an almost gritty atmosphere- Fassbinder’s Querelle- and another with a 20s version of the future, Fritz Lang’s Metropolis, looks were mostly sharp, even strict.
Drop waist jumpsuits in black, white and green with belts on each side of the hip, and sailor-cap-inspired hats had an official, uniform-like feel. A head-to-toe leather ensemble in military green was accesorised with belted leg warmers, which also came in a spiffy black leather version. Leather was embossed with a croc-like print- in a cross-body bag it was the brand’s proposal to the woman who traverses the city: the working woman. Blouson tops and wrap skirts added volatility to the collection. The last look out, a soft ensemble in gold and white stripes, gave the chaste show a light and relaxed ending.
-Ria de Borja