Long and lean, the silhouettes at Max Mara were streamlined right down to the pin straight long hair, sported by the models. There was something intensely Seventies in these proportions of below-the-knee skirts and tucked in tops, referencing the house' s own archives. But despite the blast from the past, the in-house team know how to give it all a fresh spin. The mottled print that animated much of the collection seemed animal from afar but revealed itself to be black-and-white micro florals. None of it, however lovely, felt too beholden to seasonality.
Indeed, how to weather the summer months when you're best know for your timeless coats? Weather these days creates a need for summer cover-ups for those warm showers. The opening cue was the jaunty little rain hats, occasionally paired with sunglasses. A sporty feel gave these silhouettes enough decontraction to feel unfussy. So the updated trench sported by pouty Lindsey Wixson, or a sheer duster seen later, felt fresh. The high boots, on the other hand, didn't scream warm weather.
When it wasn't head-to-toe prints, carefully contrasted black-on-white or the reverse, solid colors were outlined for a more directional outline. An occasional mustard or pink appeared, as did a rare mint. Sheer panels and textural play brought the few key details of the season in sharp relief. Max Mara women will take these linen pinstripes or long safari dresses to the boardroom rather than out to play. As the show progressed towards black, the air of luxurious detente gave way to a more urbane version of itself. As always, it's all about sophistication, come rain or shine.