Milano day one has shown the multiple personalities of the different players. Gucci has been today’s big thing. The starting point of the trip was the play of visible and invisible. In the era of social media, where the appearance went over the real substance of things, this concept reached the point with perfect timing. Hide and seek. Tell and not tell. Fully dressed and naked. The acting life of being someone else in public, but keeping our secrets in private, has been shown on the catwalk with strong contrasts as statement.
Gucci Fall/Winter 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
The mask, the invitation itself, is the signifier of the double, quoting the etymological origin of the word “person” which has been adopted from the Latin “persona” for the European languages; persona originally referred to the actor’s mask that was used to hide the individual “personal.” So, the visible was today’s formal clothing that wanted to reassure the neighbor with the tailored uniform, here reinterpreted à la Alessandro Michele’s way, with fluid and wide shouldered suits and bourgeois classic women’s dresses and even pleated miniskirts. The invisible was shown in the details – spiky studs on masks, chokers and belts worn as cartridge belts to add a punky touch to the less decorated Gucci-fied outfits. These needles remind us of the Comme des Garçons Japanese vision of rebel yell boys and girls but here were perfectly incapsulated in Michele’s aesthetic that is becoming simpler, abandoning the over styled look of a couple seasons ago which became his successful trademark. These touches are definitely Gucci but in a new way that may mark an evolution of his design.
Moncler Genius Fall/Winter 2019 presentation in Milan. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
Not two but 10 (considering the Poldo Dog Couture) different personas define the Moncler Genius point of view, the Remo Ruffini invention of multiple voices for one house to avoid the stress of feeding the voracious craving of the market. He launched this format one year ago, and the success has been huge. He completely reinvented the concept of collection drops, with different desirable objects released throughout the whole season, replicating the streetwear brands’ process. Today, Richard Quinn, Matthew Williams of 1017 ALYX 9SM, as well as Veronica Leoni and Sergio Zambon sharing the helm of 2 Moncler 1952 (divided in 3 with women, men, and accessories in collaboration with Valextra) has been added to the existing posse made by Pierpaolo Piccioli & Liya Kebede, Sandro Mandrino for 3 Moncler Grenoble, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Fragment’s Hiroshi Fujiwara, and Palm Angels’ Francesco Ragazzi. Everyone tells a different story, everyone puts his signature. Piccioli involved Liya Kebede to fuse the artisan craftsmanship to the haute couture. From elegance to functionality with the sleeping beds designed by Matthew Williams of 1017 ALYX 9SM.
Backstage at the N°21 Fall/Winter 2019 show in Milan. Photos by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua went beyond the mourning caused by not running his eponymous brand anymore, going back to his roots to tell the story of a sensual lady that blinks to an acquainted Eros. All the dresses look bon ton in the front, but they have a surprise in the back: zippered slashes that reveal latex details underneath. It’s warming to see Alessandro back to his codes which are what made the collection memorable and its association with his name.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Also, Jil Sander duo Luke and Lucie Meier analyzed the femininity with shapes that harken back to the voluptuous curves of the upper paleolithic Venus statuettes and also show those small inches of skin more than they used to do. Their Jil Sander codes are still there, but the formula is lighter even if for a Fall/Winter collection. Fabrics are softer, even the felts, and the Japanese tailoring widened the full silhouettes.
Alberta FerrettiFall/Winter 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Alessandro Garofalo for NOWFASHION.
Alberta Ferretti keeps showing a younger woman despite the DNA of the brand. The idea of the collection is to be different and avoid the boring daywear, by choosing more glamourous and eccentric solutions. Unfortunately, the result is a mix and match that is rarely seducing, even if very scenic in the evening looks.
Arthur Arbesser Fall/Winter 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
To be mentioned in this opening day of Milano Fashion Week is Arthur Arbesser, who found a balance between his conceptual rigour and a new femininity for a woman that looks more real and relaxed, even if still coherent with his language. The starting point of the collection has been his closer environment. Going back to the roots of the label, his Milano, in order to emphasize the codes. The result was good, and the Arbesser woman looked more alive than a mannequin.
Also, Trussardi made a hyper cool comeback. The Archive + Now project is in collaboration with designers, creatives, and models Giulia and Camilla Venturini. The two 30-year-old girls dug into iconic archives of the brand, styling themselves to give a different point of view of the DNA of the Bergamo brand.