On the last day of the Paris fashion shows designer Miuccia Prada decided to send out a Miu Miu collection that was a little more conventional -in terms of the Prada universe -then cerebral.
Setting the stage somewhere in the late 1960s or early 1970s, Prada transformed the austere Palais d'Iena government headquarters of the CESC in the 16th arrondissement into the lush, if highly quirky home of a prim, geek chic girl who has no problem transferring the motifs she sees on the wallpaper of her living room onto the clothes she wears out into the world.
This collection, which fell in to the season-less variety, was all about retro looking coats, paired with equally vintage styled shoots and slight A-line dresses or straight skirts and twin set tops. But what updated these nostalgic designs were Prada’s choice of color, those quirky prints, and beaded embellishments.
So a 60s style coat, with a big buttoned high and wide waist band at the back, cuffed sleeves and flap fronted pockets would show up in color combos like lemon yellow and blue, or turquoise and white. When the designer cut the same coat in fur it would be dyed a taffy purple or tomato red with the accent elements cut from patent leather. Dresses would be crafted out of an odd cat face, or flying bird patterned fabric for day and return again, the motif embellished with sequins, for evening. The classic straight skirt came in a stiff patent leather, while the twin set tops looked crafted out of spun sugar. And all the lace up boots and chunky heel shoes showed up in a myriad of slightly off shades that worked perfectly as foils against the colorful textured tights.
It all felt very familiar. Not because it referenced such a strong sartorial point in history. No this Miu Miu show seemed to also be referencing its own past. But sometimes a bit of navel gazing can be a good thing.