Interview: Watching French fashion designer Romain Kremer and his friend and creative director Nicola Formichetti on their journey through the revival of Mugler Mens is so much fun. It's like watching two kids with a chemistry set. By experimentation, a few explosions here and implosions there the pair are slowly creating a new Mugler man. It's like Wierd Science or walking into the laboratory of Blade Runner where the first android, a bionic Adam is being built from past artifacts and being brought to life. Like everybody, Romain and Nicola would love to be sultry and sexy but in reality they're the two outsiders, two ex club kids with a DIY punk attitude finding their way and making it fun. The fashion press has been ambivalent in its reaction to new Mugler, many remember the glory days of Monsieur Thierry Mugler but personally I try never to miss a step in this most curious new chapter of the brand now owned by Clarins. The Mugler man might not be fully formed but the DNA, the language and vocabulary is being assembled, there is a Mugler silhouette rising from the smoke. When the Clarins sisters walked into the show venue, I had no idea who they were but I knew straight away that they were wearing Mugler. It's all about the shoulderpads and the strong attitude; same goes for them men. We spoke to Romain Kremer backstage directly after the show:
Tell us about the opening looks, that very smart, tight look before things started to get baggy: Well, after the camera-men the first look is baggy underneath but it’s with a long coat so the proportions are kind of 70s somehow. Basically it’s all about tailoring, cocktail attire without being like formal attire…
I saw the tuxedo waist bands: Yes so it’s more in this idea of being a chic cocktail suit for men but without being the formal with the normal three-piece suit and tie and shirt. We made it so the shirt and the tie almost look like a jewel.
Lots of Jacquard in this collection in suits, capes, jackets… Lots of Jacquard. This is a material that is used for ties that we used in a long length to make a full outfit out of it whereas it’s usually only used for ties. We worked on it technically to change the aspect a bit because it can be a bit paper-like so we took that away. Then we took this denim jacket shape and made it in this super, overdressed Jacquard material. Everything is twisted basically. I’m wearing one of the jackets from the collection now and it’s like rubberized leather so it looks fake, we really played with what’s fake and real so something that looks leather isn’t and what doesn’t look like leather is. We liked this kind of mad, shiny, fake, real vibe.
This collection is for a powerful man, I'm seeing a Mugler power suit: Yes but there’s also something more playful in the more casual looks like many looks are showing a guy who’s a business man but he still has a bit of sparkle, glitter in his hair and he has this cape on top of his suit which is almost like a practical thing but you can work the look. Everything’s evolving.
Is there anything else that you want to tell me about this collection? I hope everyone loves it because we had fun.
You had the camera live streaming for two days before the show, it wasn’t too much for you? I don’t even remember. No it’s fine, I mean I believe it’s still on, the camera-man is somewhere around, oh here he’s right behind us, see you just forget about it after a while.
That’s it right? Yes, voila, until next time!
- Sarah Hay
Soundtrack: A track specially commissioned by Mugler from Azealia Banks