Mugler Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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Techno, troops and tailoring – if you had to resume Mugler's autumn-winter 2013/14 menswear, you could pretty much sum up the collection to this “holy trinity”. Tailored, air force inspired silhouettes were the main subject of Nicola Formichetti's and Romain Kremer's autumnal menswear. This and the Asian pop influence – the flashy hues, the technical fabrics – that matched perfectly with the western fit, and last but not least, the techno track “I am MUGLER” by G Dragon, that was exclusively made for the show.

Trinity being the main subject of this autumn-winter 2013/14 collection, many triangle motives could be found in flashy hues on formal blazers and hooded parkas and in a reversed version on sleek black sweaters – sometimes even morphing into a iridescent jacquard dévoré on pants and suits or graphic Velcro band applications. “For me it was always about West meets East, because I am half-Japanese, half-Italian,” explains Formichetti backstage after his show. I added what I call the “digital future” to both of these influences, which obviously created this trinity. "Creating this collection, was like playing a computer game: let's play with three topics, three colors, three sides.”

In this context, strict uniform tailoring set the tone: the flashy military inspired patch and detailing can be found on the many strict outerwear silhouettes of the show, now and then adorning a front panel of a coat, a shoulder, or a sleeve. The silhouettes first kicked off in monochromatic looks and then evolved slowly but firmly in two-tone outfits with fluorescent detailing. Flight jackets, double-breasted storm coats and sharp overcoats come along in black, anthracite and clay – next to the eye-popping blue, pink and green.  Buckled gilets resembled bulletproof vests and derby shoes came along with contrasting soles, both reinforcing the tough aeronautical look.

Some designs like a pair of high waisted buckled combat pants are clearly made for the runway and some might even find the so-called acid pink, toxic lime and chemical blue too violent – but what makes this new Mugler menswear collection clearly desirable are the sleek and impeccable cuts. A promising path, that Formichetti and Kremer already took last season, when they moved from styled silhouettes to tailored ones. A tendency that now seems firmly rooted in the brand's creative identity.

- Elisabeta Tudor

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