There is some kind of fashionable darwinism in Mugler's autumn-winter 2012/13 collection: With time, only the strongest silhouettes – the ones that have proven to be efficient in the past – are allowed on the runway. The theatrical shapes, the exaggerated and stylized proportions; but also Thierry Mugler's 1997 “Insect” collection were seen in Nicola Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné's new collection.
Creative director Formichetti confirms it; only the best inspirations of the Mugler archive were shown. This said, the creative duo is adding a contemporary tone: “I had the idea of Asia in mind, the graphic stylization of the natural world in eastern art; the idea of a fusion of maximal and minimal aesthetics. I collaborated with my friend Mr. Ryuichi Sakamoto for the show music in order to translate this play of extremes”, explains Formichetti backstage after his show.
The evolution of the show went from immaculate white architectural volumes emphasized with fox fur and mink, over to showcasing sensuous yet fierce silhouettes playing with geometrical shapes and ending with Asian inspired repetitive sheer black outfits. “It was all about a mixture of weird creatures coming out of the sea, going to the land and evolving to a more ferocious woman inspired by Japanese warriors”, adds Formichetti.
Furthermore, Formichetti's dearest wish is all about democratizing fashion. An ambition for Mugler to be “Fashion without frontiers”: “I did not want to be elitist or selective, this is why we did a live-stream of our show and backstage, so everybody – not only the invited professionals – can discover our way of working. I know that me and Sébastien added a lot of change to Mugler, by focusing more on the story-telling and styling itself, but we only had great feedback so far! You'd be surprised how wearable the pieces are!”