Mugler Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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It wouldn’t be Formichetti’s Mugler without a buzz to herald it. With a few marble steps as transition between a very wet Paris and humid tropical climes, the Mugler spring/summer 2013 was awash with rumors about the upcoming show: what would Lady Gaga’s unreleased single be? Would it feature choice words on fashion critics? And more importantly, what would the bag modeled after her best asset really look like? The audience was impatient for the lights to come up.

Then the light didn’t really come up; instead, the lighting evoked images of glamorous subtropical urban vistas, varying stripes of light throwing shadows against the walls. “I wanted an urban, cool feel,” said creative director Nicola Formichetti after the show, “the streets with chic fearless women, the Japanese automobiles.”

The clothes channeled a very relaxed, resort feel, gilded with urban edge. Micro-lengths freed legs to be kissed by the sun. An aqua shift dress evoked the proportions of a loungewear kimono, updated for daywear. Parasol pleating gave definitions to hems, and Band-Aid dresses looked fierce in stiff textiles. Lantern sleeves and lacquered materials reinforce the structural construction of dresses, while fluid fabrics ease away the harshness of black pantsuits. Near the end, a stylized tiger’s head was used in the way of the Japanese mon –a seal symbolizing a family. Colors were muted, dimmed by the setting sun; only occasionally did they shine through, exploding onto Mylar as bright saturated prints of geometric arrangement evoked the sunset over the sea.

If looking for references, these weren’t so much Mugler’s insectoid silhouettes that we’ve seen in the past but more about Formichetti’s Japanese heritage and his taste for a seaside metropolis in the summer.

All of this seemed almost secondary to the buzz of the bag. There is something about the launch of an accessories line that gets even seasoned editors hot under the collar; so imagine one that has been tagged as inspired by Lady Gaga’s best asset. As it turns out, that asset translated quite well into a trapeze-shaped clutch, with a curve just enough to evoke her derrière. The rest of the line comprised lady like boxy handbags and totes that brought just the right touch of sophistication to the collection. Songstress Azealia Banks and socialite sisters Claire and Virignie Courtin-Clarins all seemed very eager to get a closer look at them- we all did.

As a whole, the collection was solid in theme and highly relatable, and the addition of a covetable line of bags will only reinforce its “real world” appeal. From this season on, “we don’t have to reference, we have defined the Mugler woman; this is our new direction” Formichetti concluded.

- Lily Templeton
 

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