Against a dramatic propeller prop backdrop, designer David Koma turned to the navy to find his starting point for his Spring/Summer 2016 collection.
Koma's nautical notions focused on the military rigor of the uniforms of enlisted men and their officers and then cutting them in structured sexy shapes that flattered the female form. Color, too, was severely restricted – in most cases limited to one or two shades of olive green, black, navy, red, or white. In this way the symmetry of the body-con clothing remained at the center of the audience's attention.
The designer also made allusions to the military and its paraphernalia through the embellishments he added onto his sleek looks. For example, the way big white buttons curved down the hip of a navy skirt looked almost like the rivets on the hull of a destroyer. Or how pierced metal pieces featured onto a top and one dress brought to mind spent artillery casings. But most of all, it was the silver metal chevron add-ons – that mimicked the ranking patches worn on the sleeves of a uniform – that had the biggest impact.
Not only did they frame the edge of lapels on a jacket or the elongated trim of a sporty asymmetrical top, they also were used as a centerpiece on dresses sliced down to a slim center bit of leather at the waist. The chevron metal looking as if it had almost pinned the garment together to the center of the torso.
New to the catwalk this season were handbags designed by Koma. Streamlined and straightforward, they fit right in with the crisp and clean clothing. Particularly in the last few geometrically sliced and diced sliver trimmed evening dresses.