The Nina Ricci woman is utterly feminine, romantic and wants to be surrounded by beautiful things. This we know. Peter Copping has spent years solidifying this image into the fashion world’s collective psyche. But starting last season he has made some concerted efforts to tamper down the saccharine sweet side of his aesthetic for something a bit more contemporary and present in the real world. And it is working for him.
This season he injected some structure, often via menswear staples, into his designs. Just the way in which a handful of men’s white tuxedo shirts were turned into crisp shirt dresses finished in handkerchief hems with just a ripple of a ruffle looked like ideal options for a hot summer day. The tailored rather minimalistic zip front jackets were other take away pieces from this collection. The way Copping fitted them close to the body at the front and along the arms, only to leave the fabric loose at the back, was deftly done.
The introduction of rather naive flower prints that moved from off color yellow and turquoise to pink and purple shades was a dissonant note in this rather well thought out collection. Thankfully they were short live, replaced by some nice bright monochrome ensembles in azure blue satin.
It looks like the Nina Ricci girl is finally starting to loose a bit of her innocence and is gracefully moving into womanhood. But, and this is the important part, without ever forsaking the delicate nature that is at her core.