For his final show at Nina Ricci before departing for his new gig at Oscar de la Renta, designer Peter Copping underlined exactly why he got the ODLR job in the first place.
The collection was filled with lovely ladylike ensembles designed with femininity and beauty in mind.
Copping called the collection “Make Do and Mend,” in a nod to the fashions of the 1940s. A time when women had to get pretty creative with their clothing to keep themselves looking fresh and polished while rationings was still de rigueur.
It was a clever premise that translated into some interesting clothing mélanges. In a lineup of long and lean looks it was the sweaters that best expressed the DIY idea. A waffle knit v-neck version would turn to reveal a floating georgette back. A slim merinos sweater would be woven and buttoned on a curve to slide down and along the waistline of a model. Or a knitted chiffon sweater would move from a tight weave at the shoulders to a looser open work style at the waist.
Copping might have been inspired by a time when the fashion world was facing shortages. But this collection was unabashedly luxe. The designer’s comfort with elegant style and graceful embellishments will hold him in good stead in his new life with Oscar.