Paco Rabanne Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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It's now official: Lydia Maurer, Paco Rabanne's new creative director and Manish Arora's former right hand at the Rabanne studio, has detached herself from the brand's previous futuristically-flavored and over-the-top glamorous aesthetics.

As a matter of fact, the German designer diluted the Paco Rabanne identity and only kept the heritage throughout detailing. Who would have thought that her womenswear could go for edgy urban chic, after suggesting a gladiator-inspired wardrobe for summer? Well, Maurer made it possible this season, by keeping only the brand's essential - think graphic metal grids and rigid fits.

Her newest silhouettes were all about 60s inspired sleek city and evening wear, putting a focus on sequined or contrasting shirt collar dresses and mini-kilts and golden skirts that were paired with boxy fur jumpers and thereby set a preppy tone.

A bunch of trapeze shaped, wool and leather officer coats and cropped jackets were highly desirable: they came along with empire waist and sometimes squared cutouts in the back. The metal mesh, so utterly typical for Rabanne, was more supple than ever before and used to craft fully gridded silver looks, next to pleated skirts that came with cinched woolen turtlenecks, highlighted by the chunky clutches that the models carried on the runway.

Despite of the three last unnecessary laced lamé baby dolls, Lydia Maurer's second outing at Paco Rabanne was more than promising. We can totally imagine her 60s looking midnight blue pleated leather dress, with flocked metal embroideries, sported at a cocktail party or two. Hats off to it!

- Elisabeta Tudor
 

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