Julien Dossena is Paco Rabanne's new head-designer of womenswear; and those who already miss Lydia Maurer's futuristically-flavored outfits, won't be disappointed by the brand's newly proclaimed tastemaker – Dossena just happens to be Maurer's former right hand, and this definitely rubbed off on his designs.
As a matter of fact, the French designer stepped into Maurer's shoes, and revisited women's wardrobe archetypes, into metal-coated, high tech looks. He kept Maurer's penchant for the 60s, but left her glamorous and preppy aesthetics behind. In this sense, there was something more hard, and straightforward to Dossena's designs, “quite similar to the chemical element mercury, both sensual and cold,” as read the press release.
Boxy bombers, multi-zipped cargo pants, and short, twisted apron-dresses – all in Rabanne's signature metallic looks, including further clinical white, cement gray, silver, and flashy pastel hues – were quiet heavy to digest. This said, some outfits where feminine enough to not be categorized into a hard, technoid, 90s look.
The girliness of tight-fitted, glossy body-cons, was perfectly underlined by a mix of Gwen Stefani's “Cool” soundtrack, that was playing during the show. And Dossena even proposed feminine sartorial elements, that detached themselves from the usual metallic looks, such as desirable long, tailored overcoats with contrasting, lacquered lapels. We hope that the freshly nominated designer, unlike his predecessors, will be able to sit on the Paco Rabanne throne for a while.