Since his arrival at Paco Rabanne designer Julien Dossena has not, for one moment, been daunted by the singular and highly identifiable codes of the storied house he now leads. Each season over the past two and a half years he has cunningly found new and inventive ways to incorporate the DNA of the brand into his work while simultaneously bending it to his own sophisticated sporty aesthetic.
This season that mélange took another unexpected turn. The designer imagined what it might be like if his girls spent the summer traveling the music festival circuit and adjusted their attire in a DIY manner to fit in with the different environments.
A trip to Coachella would have them tie dying their bustier slip dresses and erratically punching metal grommet perforations into the fabric and finally weaving through it a bit of embroidered shredded fabric so that when they moved to the music it would stir languidly liked Spanish moss. When they hit Glastonbury, they’d toughen up with some motorbike leather tops and pants, and use the cord of their Dr. Dre Beats headphones as inspiration for leather cording that would sensually wrap the body. Primavera Sound in Spain on the Baltic Sea is where the designer’s classic 90s slip dresses done up in a towel textile, sporty stripes, and a lingerie linage would look right at home. And when they finally made it to the Life Is Beautiful festival in Las Vegas, it would be time to break out the gold metal mesh dresses embroidered by the designer to make it look as if the cotton threads of the garments were slowly devouring the mesh in a pattern reminiscent of the undulating rhythm of a base beat.
“These even look like studio foam,” said the designer indicating some nubby textural tops. He went on to explain that for him the new Rabanne woman is “tough but feminine and finding a new radical sexiness – let's say – that is super down to earth and tactile at the same time.”
This season, by following the beat of his own drum, Dossena has brought sartorial music to the ears of the fashion world.