Paris Day 2: Let's Go Back to Dreaming

The feminist proclama chez Dior  continues collaborating with Italian and American artists. Starting from the show scenography that relied on the ABCs, where maxi prints portrayed different women in the shape of a letter, created by artist Bianca Pucciarelli Menna (1931), aka Tomaso Binga, a woman that choose the masculine pseudonym as parodying the privileges reserved to men alone. Her work through the decades has been focused on asserting the female way of thinking. So, she used words and bodies in a transgressive and destabilizing way to affirm her mindset even when she was invited in 1978 to the Venice biennale. Still fighting, she was at the show and proclaimed a piece before the beginning.



Dior Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


The défilé opened with a long wool skirt and the high-waisted belt incorporating a saddle pocket, one of the new accessories of the collection. The bucket hat was another one, which is maybe not so hip since it is already the Summer 2019 must have. The look was completed with a “Sisterhood is global” t-shirt, the second homage to feminism of the season. The phrase is from Robin Morgan (1941), the American feminist poet (there were also the “Sisterhood is powerful” and “Sisterhood is forever” tees), which celebrates the concept of sorority. The show rediscovered some codes of the maison: Christian Dior’s nipped-waisted dresses, the Bar suit, the leather jacket by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior, and a profusion of buffalo check in red or green and black. The vision of creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri is masterfully product-driven, and the results in the stores undoubtedly support her collections, but the magic of the French grandeur is still missing. Maria Grazia is an illuminated creative person and perfectly focused professionally with the needs of today for a behemoth like Dior, but a company like it must be also a dream maker; it’s a duty. By injecting an overdose of rêve in these impeccable products, the Chiuri vision seems beyond criticism.



Marine Serre Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.


The “beautiful package” method is what designers like Marine Serre or Christelle Kocher at Koché are applying to their brands – a very spectacular, surprising, and emotionally involving presentation that is often more beautiful than the clothes. The former – a 20-year-old open-minded French designer, winner of the LVMH Prize in 2017, and immediately projected in the fashion Olympus for being a Balenciaga posse girl – presented her collection in an underground cellar in Issy-les-Moulineaux, a small town in the Parisian suburbia, known for its industrial and architectural heritage. The scenario was post-apocalyptic, blazes of laser lights were cutting the slightly foggy air in the darkness of the basement. The inspiration was a message to society to take care of our planet. Which is true. These survivors took shelter underground in order to preserve themselves and founded a new pluriversal aesthetic that randomly mixed different styles (from elegant to sportswear). Along the signature balaclava printed catsuits and the foulard dresses there were coats with huge furry collars and details, fluorescent uniforms and tailored tartan coats, tailleurs and dresses. A collection delivered by a millennial for millennials that don’t care about the strong references from her previous job or from collections from the 90s masters, to mention a few. But actually, who care in general, because this world is going too fast to stick to memories, which is fine, but let’s be also aware that the real talents are still to come.



Koché Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


Koché, designed by Christelle Kocher from Strasbourg, who founded it in 2015, enlarged the presentation to the maximum. She is evolving her style from a radical streetwear with street-cast girls, mix and matched clothes from vintage to folk, and industrial locations to a major and mature presentation with a concert audience. The collection was good. The style of the designer is present, but deeply evolved in something that is moving toward an expected direction. Bourgeoisie printed dresses, blouses, and shirts; egg-shaped coats with wide couture-like feathered hats; velvet and silk slipdresses; and glittered evening dresses paraded along the signature flag printed items and the new Nike collaboration. These young brands played the right game telling their story, including people, and becoming cool. In two years, Serre has become one of the coolest things in the system; Koché, in four years, defined a strong identity, evolved it, and keeps growing. It’s all about how the message is packaged.

 


Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Alessandro Garofalo for NOWFASHION.

The end of the second day of Paris Fashion Week was celebrated by Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director, walked back to the 80s quoting the style of the iconic muses of the House: Betty Catroux, Bianca Jagger, and Catherine Deneuve. Sharp and super-wide shoulders for all the tailored items were a kind of sculptural homage to the Yves Saint Laurent masculine classics for women. Those ladies live only during the night: tuxedos, Vaccarello’s signature minidresses reloaded into the Maison codes; Opium (the fragrance launched by monsieur in 1977) inspired chinoiserie in gorgeous red/black velvets, and silks and fur details. The collection marks a very important step into a new (needed) identity that better reflects le spirit de la maison, keeping with the past but exploring a stronger point of view. This night obsession perfectly fit with both DNA and it’s the path to walk. The elongated silhouettes of the wiry girls clutched on infinite spike heels were magnificent, perfectly in-tune with the designer’s language and precise for the modern Saint Laurent identity. Backstage the designer gave us another feminist message, saying that even if his woman looks like a hyper-sensual femme fatal, she’s not aggressive or a fighter for power or eulogies; she’s confident because she doesn’t need any help from anyone. We need to dream about beauty in a world that is going in the wrong direction. And the first fashion duty is to create dreams and let us enjoy them.


SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Porsche is more Valuable than Fashion
By Aarushi Saxena
Luxury car maker Porsche accelerated to the top rank in the Brand Finance Luxury &...
By Aarushi Saxena
Luxury car maker Porsche accelerated to the top rank in the Brand Finance Luxury & Premium 50 list, becoming the world's most valuable brand, while Louis Vuitton was knocked off the second spot by Cartier. Cementing itself as front-runner in the luxury sector, Porsche has increased its brand...
Luxury car maker Porsche accelerated to the top rank in the Brand Finance Luxury & Premium 50 list, becoming the world's most valuable brand, while Louis Vuitton was knocked off the second spot by Cartier. Cementing itself as front-runner in the luxury sector, Porsche has increased its brand value by 54 percent to US$29.3 billion, according to the latest report by Brand Finance, an...
e-P Summit Charts Fashion’s Future
By Jessica Bumpus & Sofia Celeste
The 7th edition of the e-P Summit kicked off in Milan Wednesday under the aegis of the theme...
By Jessica Bumpus & Sofia Celeste
By Jessica Bumpus & Sofia Celeste
The 7th edition of the e-P Summit kicked off in Milan Wednesday under the aegis of the theme “Next Level Now,” tackling key subjects like omnichannel retail and marketing, direct-to-consumer retailing, and 3D digital fashion design. Organized by Pitti Immagine, the one-day power networking event...
The 7th edition of the e-P Summit kicked off in Milan Wednesday under the aegis of the theme “Next Level Now,” tackling key subjects like omnichannel retail and marketing, direct-to-consumer retailing, and 3D digital fashion design. Organized by Pitti Immagine, the one-day power networking event brought together international leaders and key players who are developing the strategies currently...
Seoul FW’s Eco Revamp
By Jessica Bumpus
Seoul is a city known for its tech, pop, and beauty, but also for its air pollution. Earlier this...
By Jessica Bumpus
By Jessica Bumpus
Seoul is a city known for its tech, pop, and beauty, but also for its air pollution. Earlier this year, emergency laws were brought in to tackle record levels of fine dust that blanketed the sky. And while the city’s inhabitants manage to style out face masks with much aplomb, it shouldn’t come...
Seoul is a city known for its tech, pop, and beauty, but also for its air pollution. Earlier this year, emergency laws were brought in to tackle record levels of fine dust that blanketed the sky. And while the city’s inhabitants manage to style out face masks with much aplomb, it shouldn’t come as any surprise to find out that, just as elsewhere across the globe, its young and emerging...
FIAC: Art or Fashionable Stuff?
By Rebecca Voight
The FIAC (Foire International d’Art Contemporain), Paris’ contemporary arts fair which closed...
By Rebecca Voight
The FIAC (Foire International d’Art Contemporain), Paris’ contemporary arts fair which closed this weekend, is one of those annual cultural happenings that everyone wants a piece of. The city began to look like an arty amusement park days before the fair opened when Jeff Koons’ monumental hand...
The FIAC (Foire International d’Art Contemporain), Paris’ contemporary arts fair which closed this weekend, is one of those annual cultural happenings that everyone wants a piece of. The city began to look like an arty amusement park days before the fair opened when Jeff Koons’ monumental hand holding a bouquet of cartoon tulips (a “gift” to the city from the artist after the Bataclan terrorist...
Beauty’s AR Quest
By NOWFASHION
The cosmetics industry is currently scrambling to appeal to millennial and Gen-Z consumers. In...
By NOWFASHION
By NOWFASHION
The cosmetics industry is currently scrambling to appeal to millennial and Gen-Z consumers. In their quest to appeal to the younger generation, brands are increasingly investing in new virtual and augmented reality features adapted to mobile devices. After launching a limited version at the...
The cosmetics industry is currently scrambling to appeal to millennial and Gen-Z consumers. In their quest to appeal to the younger generation, brands are increasingly investing in new virtual and augmented reality features adapted to mobile devices. After launching a limited version at the beginning of the year, YouTube expended its AR Beauty features by letting potential customers try on...
How to Lose Followers
By Aarushi Saxena
Disingenuous endorsements is the number one reason why individuals unfollow influencers,...
By Aarushi Saxena
By Aarushi Saxena
Disingenuous endorsements is the number one reason why individuals unfollow influencers, according to Instagram creative firm Takumi and a study released last week by Marketing Charts, a hub for data, graphics, and research analysis. Based on a survey of 2,251 representatives in the UK, the US,...
Disingenuous endorsements is the number one reason why individuals unfollow influencers, according to Instagram creative firm Takumi and a study released last week by Marketing Charts, a hub for data, graphics, and research analysis. Based on a survey of 2,251 representatives in the UK, the US, and Germany, a significant crowd of 16- to 24-year-old consumers credit influencers for their “trendy...
The Kimono Reinvented
By Elisabeta Tudor
The kimono has always been an object of fascination. Even in Japan, where it is considered an...
By Elisabeta Tudor
By Elisabeta Tudor
The kimono has always been an object of fascination. Even in Japan, where it is considered an intangible cultural treasure, designers can’t help but put their hands on it to reinvent it and challenge traditional perception.Yoshiki Hayashi, an influential composer and musician-turned-designer, did...
The kimono has always been an object of fascination. Even in Japan, where it is considered an intangible cultural treasure, designers can’t help but put their hands on it to reinvent it and challenge traditional perception.Yoshiki Hayashi, an influential composer and musician-turned-designer, did just that during the latest week of runway shows in Tokyo. As of today, the best-selling artist –...
The Forgotten Side of Fashion
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
In our current times that are defined by social media and selfies, it is not uncommon for fashion...
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
In our current times that are defined by social media and selfies, it is not uncommon for fashion designers to solely focus on the front sides of the garments they design. Is this a reflection of our current digitally-obsessed era, or does this tendency reveal a decline of true craftsmanship?The...
In our current times that are defined by social media and selfies, it is not uncommon for fashion designers to solely focus on the front sides of the garments they design. Is this a reflection of our current digitally-obsessed era, or does this tendency reveal a decline of true craftsmanship?The contrast was striking. On September 25th, Anrealage’s Creative Director Kunihiko Morinaga chose to...