The Philosophy brand got a whole new attitude, and a new name, on Friday when the first presentation of Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini got underway.
“This collection is about glamorous innocence and is inspired by Brooke Shields,” explained designer Lorenzo Serafini before his show. “It’s kind of a journey of, like, a young Brooke Shields from the early '80s, from the time of the Pretty Baby movie, up to the famous Richard Avedon portrait.”
What this translated to on the runway was a girly collection filled with mousseline dresses printed or decorated with Victorian lace. High-waisted slim pants, russet-hued color block outerwear, micro flower print ruffled tops and one saccharine sweet cable knit cape finished off with pearl buttons.
The collection was something of a return to its roots, and was much more in keeping with the work Alberta Ferretti originally designed for this brand. Which was once considered the secondary line to her signature collection.
The sense of homecoming also had to do with the relocation of the show. Serafini chose to return the line to Milan from New York, where it had been presenting for a number of seasons.
“It was the first thing, when I was appointed to this job, was to come back to Milan to show. Because, actually, I wanted to be part of this new wave, this new energy that is happening in Milan, and I am very proud to be part of it,” said Serafini
The ultra-feminine frocks pointed to the decade the designer spent working at Roberto Cavalli and his years with Dolce & Gabbana. There were also a few flashback moments in the show of the Stella McCartney era at Chloe in the late 1990s.
This was a perfectly lovely collection and will surely find followers. But with this debut, Serafini tread a sartorial road that has already been well-explored by those who have come before him.