Ugly is the new pretty and maxi is the new prim, according to Muccia Prada that is. On each look today proportions were pushed and pulled. Everything from buttons to waistlines and rims on sunglasses had been tinkered with, almost as if the collection was designed first then the team stood back and thought, what can we mess with to make it feel 'now'? Inspiration seemed to be mother and grand-mothers wardrobes during the seventies plus a good rifle through their jewelry boxes at the same time. Kitsch geometric patterns on Capri pant suits and long sleeveless day coats clashed with more geometric patterns on bags that swung above eccentric brogues. Decorative jewelry was liberally hand-stiched across coats, shirt collars and platform heels. In all, a kind of body dysmorphia was going on in this collection that threw up a lot of challenges for the viewer. Presented on an expansive, deep violet carpet lit by giant seventies style chandeliers, this seasons selection could not be further away, or predicted, after the must-have spring summer collection that will hit the stores in a months time. She keeps the world on its toes, does Muccia.
- Sarah Hay (collection review)