In the 90s lots of British rave apparel took inspiration from American Indian blankets but it was all very baggy and unstructured with hoodies and rucksacks built for all-night, outdoor parties. How nice was it then to see this theme return in an entirely different context, the ultra modern, urbane setting of Proenza Schouler.
Co-designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez said that the inspiration for this collection came from a road trip to Sante Fe, the capital of New Mexico that’s rich with the history and arts and crafts of nineteen or so American Indian tribes. The theme provided an interesting mix of colours for next autumn and winter: red clay, mustard, indigo blue and hunter green. The woven patterns used by the Indians provided juxtaposition between graphics and the female form.
Proenza had skirts wrap around and buckle shut, cardigans that borrowed from military design and trousers, loose around the hips, tapering in to the ankle. The patterns plus the design mixed with tailored jackets and leather t-shirts gave the impression of elements successfully harmonizing to reach that urban, casual/formal note that Proenza delivers so well. At many point’s details, perhaps the jut of a square were enlarged and used to guide the lines on a coat or dress.
Accessories were a highlight: bear-claw necklaces, leather handheld satchels (mini PS2?) in both leather and a woven version. The heels were high, rectangular stiletto’s with bodies that buckled up over the ankle, again using the patterns of the Indian blankets to guide shapes.