Reinaldo Lourenço, closed this seasons' SPFW, with a commercial sensitive, yet Couture-worthy tailored collection, that unlike his fellow, competing designers, could sell like hot cakes, both, in Brazil, and abroad.
“With the financial crisis, and our high export/import taxes, I haven't thought of trying to sell in Paris again, but maybe I should,” stated Lourenço backstage after his show.
Yes, indeed, he should try to make a Parisian comeback; his all-black-everything 80s inspired, feminine outfits, crafted from wool gabardine, had just the right portion of skin-revealing elements – think, geometrical cut-outs on the shoulders of tops, and leggy pencil skirts – and architectural constructed silhouettes, with a particular focus on a cinched and peplum-adorned waist, that all in all, provided the right balance between cheeky sexiness and sober elegance.
While his son, Pedro Lourenço, has chosen Paris as his new head-quarters for the upcoming year, Reinaldo brings Paris to São Paulo, thus, paying a tribute to the strong cultural bound, between the two cities, and countries. Then came a row of brightly hued, magenta and purple, leopard printed silhouettes, with a slightly blurred pattern, as if the print was actually finger painted, paired with iridescent golden or silver– a nonchalant homage to the 80s, again.
“It's about a French elegant woman. The collection is inspired by the 80s, but it is not retro at all. It is very important for me to be contemporary, I can't stand the word retro,” explained the designer, who, moreover chose a few typical French songs from the 80s, which added a sugar-coated tone to the show.
For those who aren't fond of Parisian chic, Lourenço added a hint of 20s glamor, generally through rounded and loose-fit shapes, and more particularly with several floor-sweeping art déco-patterned gowns, perhaps the most desirable pieces of his collection, although this decision is quiet difficult to make, considering the rest was equally charming. “It looks like laser-cut, but the lines are actually drawn and cut by hand, with the use of various ribbons,” explained Lourenço. “Every dress takes at least 4 or 5 days to make. I always need to explore new techniques, from one season to another, it keeps me going,” he concluded.