Roberto Cavalli stayed true to form this season, returning to the prints he loves and sexy rock ‘n’ roll silhouettes that have become his signature style.

This season the Florentine designer examined the idea of what art represents to him and the people of his hometown. A passionate photographer in his own right (Cavalli’s photographs have been used in the past in his collections), the designer turned to the work of Renaissance artists like Rubens and Caravaggio this time, using their rich flower-filled artwork as the show’s leitmotif.

There were two main trains of thought on the Cavalli catwalk. On the one hand those distinctive prints, on the other a quasi-gothic rock style that featured lots of graphic steel stud embellishments, silver chains and shimmering sequins.

Cavalli broke up his collection into color themed vignettes. There were the monochrome prints that opened the show, then some fire engine red was introduced, next came the plum shades, including versions with a wash of gold. The designer then came full circle at the end of the show with some striking semi-sheer black eveningwear that used the models’s skin as a substitute for white.

There wasn’t a predominate silhouette to this show; Cavalli sent out his dresses in mini, midi and maxi lengths. His finely tailored suits (often in flocked velvet “wallpaper” motifs) were cut close to the body with slim pants and taut jackets. As for outerwear, that came down to a lot of colorful fluffy furs.

This was a classic Cavalli collection. One that fans of the brand will find comfort in when next winter rolls around.

- Jessica Michault