Recently the collections of Roberto Cavalli have taken on a new interpretation of the brand's own sex appeal, but it’s like the gaudy gypsy of old is being pruned or pulled into line by a new gothic direction. Today bright hippy floral patterns on flowing materials were juxtaposed with sleek, tougher, black tuxedo jackets, gold gladiator skirts or leopard prints. Pretty early into proceedings the collection felt a lot easier to understand if the prints were ignored to appreciate the potential of everything else. The theme of silk trimmed, flat-collared tuxedo jackets in black or cream - snug fit or over-sized - became just that much more clearer if the eye wasn’t distracted by those odd chintzy prints.
Later in the show, heavy three dimensional embroidery on the decadently tailored golden jackets stole the eye; likewise for the tux jacket with leather strips stitched like Gothic feathers from the shoulders down to the wrists. The leopard evening jackets and little dresses that had large golden wings added to the screenprint were also standout pieces. The show's finale comprised of black, and then gold, floor-sweeping evening gowns with sequins stitched into patterns resembling feathers placed so intricately that the effect neared hallucinogenic. Highly skilled seamstresses must have put hundreds of work hours into each of these pieces; the wearers will feel a zillion dollars and we look forward to seeing some of these pieces on the red carpet as awards season gets underway. I can see Halle Berry, Milla Jovovitch or Mila Kunis in some of the stronger outfits. We await their photocall....
Love Theme from Flashdance by Giorgio Moroder
Ribbons by Sisters Of Mercy
(words: Sarah Hay)