Roberto Cavalli was firing on all pistons with his spring/summer show. This collection, which found its starting point in the Art Nouveau era, was a faultless amalgamation of designer DNA and iconic inspiration.

For a designer who has long embraced the power of prints, the decorative Art Nouveau patterns were manipulated with the ease of an expert. Organic shapes and forms gave fluid silk pants; pointed shouldered jackets and spaghetti strap slip dresses (that finished with hip high slits on each side), the illusion of structure. Citrus colors of lime and tangerine added a tangy punch to the outfits.

When Cavalli wasn’t giving free reign to his beloved prints he produced some highly elaborate outfits that used laser cut leather, delicate lace inserts and glass beaded embroidery to create elegant and artisanal designs. Highlights included v-neck dresses, that were held together at the sides with swags of leather strands and silk tunic tops, embedded with inverted triangles of perforated leather.

For evening, Cavalli embellished his Art Nouveau patterns with beading on slinky floor skimming gowns. He then cleverly echoed the pattern’s organic shapes by cutting the fabrics to leave slices of skin exposed. The result was a show that was both sexy and smart.

- Jessica Michault