Rynshu Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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There was a collective gasp as Rynshu trotted out the ultimate look of his fall-winter 2013-2014, a militaristic look with a red armband, complete with a bright pink figure pinned on the breast. Despite being reminiscent of punk/goth band leaders in Japanese pop culture, this triggered a rather shocked throw-back to WWII's SS uniforms and persecution "color coding" as the whispers of departing guests suggested.

To say that this final touch overshadowed a show that should have been about glamor and a new twist on elegance is an understatement. And a shame it is, as the Japanese designer reprised part of his “cast” of faces to offer what can be imagined as the red carpet of his previous cinematic endeavors.

With a movable spotlight following every step came his vision of a self assured modern gentleman, one who exudes star power so intense that he bears his own spotlight. No matter how dressed up, he keeps an element of utility through heavy, fur lined boots.

A hybrid of a drop crotch sarwel trouser and a kilt, pleated at the fork, creates a new variation on the certitudes of manliness. Rynshu’s work on texture returns, as strong as ever: smart quilting on a jacket that left the way to smooth underarms and body sides – to minimize rub and damage; tweed woven with a tiny amount of sparkle.

Elegant without being too serious, Rynshu’s man slips easily from a smoking cape to a suit printed with a city map, to a preppy variation complete with white piped lapels topping houndstooth trousers. A matching bow sits at the neck.

His menswear is complimented by his womenswear: he proposes a chic update to the pantsuit, with a sharply tailored blazer, a statement necklace replacing the shirt and sparkling trousers, or creates a new smoking silhouette as a flowing dress. Elements slide from one wardrobe to another seamlessly. Everywhere, the subtle sheen of tonal embellishments that catch the light under the flashes of cameras.

Had he not misstepped at the end, this could have been a likable offering from this multichannel designer.

- Lily Templeton

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