Saint Laurent Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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You have to give it to Hedi Slimane, the guy knows how to make a dramatic entrance. Last season, for his debut womenswear show at Saint Laurent he made a stereo sound system descend from the rafters. This time for his return to the brand’s menswear catwalk, Slimane who designed the line before in the late 1990s, created a merry-go-round of sound. An impressive carrousel of loud speakers, lit up by florescent white lights, began to spin at the end of the catwalk as the designer sent out his fall/winter 2013 collection.

Critics of the designer’s womenswear show (yours truly included) argued that the collection had been a bit too much of an homage to Mr. Yves Saint Laurent. This time that was not the case. Menswear is Slimane’s happy place and this collection was 100% crafted in his own image. It was completely faithful to the look and feel of the universe the designer prefers to inhabit: the cool, after hours rock and roll club scene.
 
This season the location of Slimane’s club seemed to be on the urban streets of London, where Cool Britain’s youth favors second skin pants, maxi fuzzy sweaters, and a bit of sequins outlining the holes in their ripped jeans. The mussy haired, often androgynous, models paced down the runway with a particular disgruntled and disenfranchised air about them (a look that only the young can successfully pull off.) They appeared as if they were coming home from a long night of listening to (or performing in) an underground club. Which made sense, as many of them were actual musicians.
 
All the staples of that style showed up on the runway: Tartan checked slim shirts, a bad boy leather perfecto jacket, zippered embellished biker pants, suede ankle boots, oversized fair isle sweaters, the famous Slimane slim suits cut with strong shoulders, just a dash of animal prints and an abundance of long stripped “Harry Potter” scarves. But of course, all of it cut with precision and in luxe fabrics that are surly going to price the collection out of the reach for those who inspired it and would want to wear it.

- Jessica Michault

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