Salvatore Ferragamo Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Milan

This season creative director Massimiliano Giornetti took the Salvatore Ferragamo man into the shadowy streets of a rainy New York City after dark. Between the walls covered in videos of the rain splatter metropolis sparkling with neon lights and the black asphalt like catwalk (it too wet from a recent down pour) it was hard to imagine the collection not having a sinister sartorial slant.

But no, apparently the Ferragamo man doesn’t do sinister, just stylish. And an urban city street setting is just a great backdrop to show off some luxe outerwear in bulked up proportions.  For this was a collection all about coats, often outfitted with luxurious linings in cashmere or shearling, and paired with slim pants and sturdy thick treads shoes.

There was a play with matte and shine which saw glossy leathers bonded to black wool felt that peeked out at the lapels. And the rubberized accents outlining pockets or zipping down sleeves was a nice touch.  The only really shady element of the show was the designer’s choice of color palette. Every outfit was cut in deep midnight blues, forest greens or pitch blacks. It showed off the designer’s talent as a colorist and gave a richness to this rather reserved collection.

- Jessica Michault

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