At the house of Salvatore Ferragamo designer Massimiliano Giornetti decided to make his collection walk the line. In a play on delineation and bleeding boundaries he imbued the clothing with an undeniable bourgeois sophistication thanks to the use of rich fabrics and solid tailoring.
“Its more intimate, much more cozy,” said Giornetti in a preview of the collection.
But if intimacy was what Giornetti was going for it only really resonated in the homey staging of the show and the warm color palette of rich chocolate and tobacco browns, crème, navy blue and just a dash of red that the designer created for the ensembles. In fact, the strongest pieces where the outerwear that used needle punch fabrics for a dramatic and graphic effect on dusters, duffle coats and jackets.
But for every successful ensemble the designer sent down the runway, there was one that stumbled. If this was a collection about closeness and comfort then why cinch belts on striped suits so tight they gave an hourglass figure to the male models? Or pad short jackets to make them look uncomfortably bulky? The same goes for a starch stiff pony skin jacket.
The dichotomy between the concept and the execution created a underlying dissonance to this collection. But putting that aside, when Giornetti got it right the result was nothing less then lovely.