Salvatore Ferragamo Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Milan

This was a smooth evolution on the house’s spring collection, carrying over leitmotifs like asymmetric double-layer skirts and lapel experimentation as a neck feature on jackets and outerwear, and strong men’s wear influences. Even the footwear looked similar, with spring’s sandals (sporting glossy black leather shin guards and corset-style lace up backs) resurfacing, only this time with a closed pointy toe.

And where last season there were pops of feminine old rose, taupe and khaki, this collection showed a darker, at times colder side that underscored creative director Massimiliano Giornetti’s mission to steer the Florentine house in a more modern, edgier direction.

For fall, the layered ensembles looked the most sophisticated, with a languid oversized black silk lapel spilling out from under a slim matte black tuxedo jacket, worn with a matching layered skirt with a longer asymmetric panel at the back. The mixes of black and navy also worked well, with deep blue ponyskin panels enlivening a black trench with an asymmetric collar.

Outerwear hogged the spotlight. Among the contenders, a mannish oversized black leather coat with a double lapel - one in black leather, one in navy suede - was bang on trend, as was the cropped double-breasted jacket in black mohair. Ultra high white turtlenecks slung with small crucifixes on fine chains and a clinical trench in white patent leather cemented the line’s modernist mood, though the long slim pleated pants with small vents at the shoe line and the dated slim gray pinstripe looks proved a distraction.

- Katya Foreman

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