Ahoy land lubbers! Serkan Cura’s shore-locked spirits walked the planks to much acclaim to present his spring 2014 couture collection, the first he presents as an invited guest of the Chambre Syndicale. A lick of theatricality, a dash of suspended disbelief and without a scrap of special effects, the Turkish-born designer had us in the grips of goddesses that wouldn’t give an inch to Callisto – the vengeful goddess of blockbuster Pirates of the Carribean – but miles away from his island, couture lovers will have not missed the impeccable craftsmanship on full view in a corseted outfit, nor turn their noses up at the ferocious porcupine cuffs.
What Cura perfectly expressed is the versatility of his material of choice. In his hands, the adornments of many species become once again the living, moving material from which dreams are cut. Sweet, ferocious, demure or conquering, the woman he created was compelling, even when she looked deadly, delivered with a hand that speaks of the apprenticeship he received in the famous houses he worked for before striking out on his own, and of the lessons he absorbed while there.
But beyond the appeal of this collection as a singular entity, there is something more than just a seasonal spark here. As feathers have once again become a material of choice and not just an embellishment, it will be interesting to see not just how Cura progresses but what innovations he brings to the table in coming seasons.