Size Does Matter and Paris Has the Proof

Keeping away from the extremes is not on the agenda this season. On the contrary, designers in Paris are opting for a "less is more" or a "more is more" philosophy. Either way, not only does size matter – be it Jacquemus’ itsy-bitsy bags or Anrealage's supersized ready-to-wear – size is crucial when it comes to determining a designer's next must-have piece for Fall/Winter 2019.



Jacquemus Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


In fact, if you think about it, we are driven by numbers each and every day, and numbers ultimately determine sizes : clothing from size zero to plus-size, the size of our bank account, the size of our impact on social media channels and the profit – numbers, again! – we can generate out of it…and we could go on forever. In Paris, however, fashion designers are not having it. They are taking the piss out of our society's obsession with sizes, to say the least. They play with proportions and volumes as they please, and emphasize this by rendering their item’s sizes – or sometimes, even details within the item – either incredibly tiny or totally over-the-top, which ultimately proposes a new take on the function and style of the clothing piece or accessory itself.



Jacquemus Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


Take Jacquemus, for instance. This time around, Simon Porte would not let anyone pigeonhole him. Yes, he's always inspired by his dear South of France and by a certain form of French artistry, culture, and nostalgia that represent the leitmotiv of his ready-to-wear collections, but he's also proven that he's quite the wiz when it comes to designing outstanding fashion accessories. In fact, he surprises us each and every season! The oversized raffia it-bags and sunhats are gone and made space for bags, so small, one could barely distinguish some of them as they fused with the collection's outfits, blending with their surroundings just like a chameleon. 



Anrealage Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


Kunihiko Morinaga, for his part, took the "supersize me" mantra to a whole other level. As the saying goes, God is in the details, and it is precisely the details – a collar, a buckle belt, a safety pin, or a button flap – that Morinaga magnified, and so much so that those details were no longer a mere aesthetically pleasing triviality but a style statement with a life of its own. "We are used to seeing fashion on a screen, where clothes all come in the same size – a square on a smartphone screen that shows details of standard clothes," he said in an official statement. "We want to reinterpret the reality of what we see by magnifying the details to create wearable pieces. We want to find the value in the little details that we can easily pass by." Some of the most appealing pieces included garment label tags that were adorned with a size tag and transformed into oversized shawls, draped nonchalantly around the shoulders. 



Anrealage Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


Christelle Kocher also tapped into that supersized trend with a quite impressive runway show production that screamed "go big or go home." The French designer no longer opts for her signature style small, urban venues with a DIY spirit. This time around, she had her very own army of models – "United Hearts of Koché" – ready for a spectacular runway show at Paris' gigantic AccorHotels Arena, a 55 000 m2 big event space that usually hosts concerts and sports games. 



Koché Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.

It might be too farfetched – it's fashion, darling, not a George Orwell-inspired dystopia – but in a way, these distortions of sizes, proportions, and extreme volumes say a lot about our current status quo on a broader level. After all, we are torn apart between extremes and yet trying to find harmony and inner peace despite a divided and tense socio-political climate. Afterhomework excelled this season when it came to this subject: Pierre Kaczmarek and Elena Mottola, the young designer-duo behind the Parisian brand, played a lot with structure and patterns, and rethought the function of sports and technical inspired garments by deconstructing and distorting them in an exaggerated manner. In fact, extremes are likely to increase in the future and will continue to affect artistic output. The way creative minds – such as fashion designers during Paris Fashion Week – respond to the global changes currently underway remains intriguing. Stay tuned. 


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