Smalto Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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Smalto's creative director, Youn Chong Bak knows how to please a gentleman. A crackling wood fire in a countryside house, a round of poker with old friends and  a good bottle of whiskey, that's all a man needs to feel like a true dandy. This, and the finest sartorial wardrobe, preceded by a proper shoe polish and the ministrations of a master barber, of course!

“Smalto has been working on sartorial tailoring for over 50 years now. Ever since I started to design for the brand, I tried to keep Smalto's traditional signature style and to twist it in a contemporary way,” explains Bak during her presentation. “I thereby focus on classical tailoring, but I try to use rather contemporary scenarios. Thus, we presented the current collection through different installations.”

In this context, the designer who started her work for the Italian luxury house with the spring-summer 2008 season, reinterpreted Smalto's heritage through small, quality detailing for the autumn-winter 2013/14 collection: “Francesco Smalto was about details, such as hand stitching. I stayed true to this precious artisanal way of working and used it for tailoring, of course, but also for casual weekend clothing,” added the designer.

Her menswear collection included closely fitted, formal tuxedos, with impeccable notch and lapel cuts – the ones that made Smalto's reputation and occasionally came around in velvet – paired with perfectly cut pant suits, generous cable knits, waterproof cashmere sweaters, next to chunky cardigans, classical shirts and fitted leather jackets, that were accessorized with silky scarves and classical derby shoes. Dark and light denim blue, grey shades, khaki, off-white and green were the leading hues of the discreet color-palette. A true homage to bespoke tailoring.

- Elisabeta Tudor

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