The Salle Wagram was packed to the rafters for Sonia Rykiel, with benches reaching up to the first floor. In the front row, front and center were the Rykiel women, founder Sonia, daughter Nathalie and granddaughter Lola. Behind the scenes was Artistic Director Geraldo da Conceicao.
“Moi moi moi” (me me me) repeated incessantly an intarsia knit that wrapped around from head-to-toe. Rykiel was one of the first to put words on garments, so this felt all at once referential and a bit of a zeitgeisty statement. The menswear cut on oversized trousers gave a tomboyish devil-may-care attitude. Textured knits and chained roses intarsia nodded to the house's history and strengths. He fared well in that regard, and continues to build his direction.
But the destructured-looking (for it was not, in fact destructured) loungewear for outside did not always move as nicely together. Nor did the clunky looking flatform sandals give the kind of boost confidently womanly gait. For all the on-trend feel of pajama dressing and upgraded lingerie slips, or even the tactile fuzziness of fluffed up furs, it felt a little too, well, fuzzy.
In an age where women dress to impress themselves and no one else, for certain this was a very individual statement of intent offered by da Conceicao; but was it the right one?
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