“Beauty is no accident, it’s invented, reflected, it’s dialogue with the mirror. The one true dialogue,” was a quote from Sonia Rykiel that sat at the top of the show notes for the brand's fall/winter 2015 collection. In this her sophomore outing at the house, designer Julie de Libran took this idea of mirrors and ran with it.
On De Libran’s catwalk the mirror was represented in the shine, shimmer and sparkle of her chosen fabrics. The eye-catching silver-bonded leather pants or metal eyelet-perforated skirts certainly reflected the bright runway show lights. So did the black and silver snakeskin slip dress and a fringed-cuffed tweed coat dress woven with lurex that glinted along with its tasseled safety pin closure.
To counteract all that reflection, the designer played with velvet, which sucks in light and claims it for itself. Velvet only reveals its true color in the most vibrant of bright lights. So it was just for an instant that a guest could make out the fact that the velvet pants Lizzy Jagger wore on the runway featured golden brown leaves on a liberty print. The label’s tried-and-true jumpsuit also showed up in a midnight blue velvet alternative. In addition, the distinctive fabric was also smartly incorporated into the brand’s iconic stripes. Matched with contrasting russet-hued silk on a lovely halter dress.
In general, the striping was downplayed in this show. It was spotted on built-in socks that came woven into the footwear, and at the ends of the sleeves of lightweight knits.
Instead the style was pushed onto the menswear looks in the collection. Which made a nice way to subtly say that what is good for the goose is also good for the gander chez Rykiel.
If there was one thing that felt just a tad overdone, it was all the furs. It’s true the Rykiel girl does love her furs. But the profusion of them on the catwalk left more than a few pining to see what lied beneath.
But maybe that was exactly De Libran’s intention. Keep’em guessing and they’ll keep coming back for more.