Stephane Rolland Couture Fall Winter 2015 Paris
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Ambling through Stéphane Rolland’s salons on Avenue George V, crowded with clients and press mingling over a glass of champagne amid mannequins modeling his Fall collection, the sentiment that the couturier wanted to bring his designs home prevailed. 

Mosaics of fabric and gold leather basket work evoked the modernist spirit of the Thirties, but these didn't distract from the impression that this was a retrospective effort. Again remodeled were the asymmetric jumpsuits, the column dresses flowing to the ground, the cape dresses. Gold and an odd touch of lime warmed the desert neutrals that Rolland enjoys. Black was left as a contouring shade. Mosaics of silicone were perhaps the least appealing, betraying their rawness in the detailing.

Fabric manipulations were almost an afterthought, shaping a shoulder or defining a shining plastron rather than serving as moving sculptures. It was not a severe outing, and the ease felt refreshing. His architectural approach to fabric remained, but in favoring the long and lean rather than the expansive silhouette, Rolland made a case for subtlety and economy in design. It was a safer proposal than usual, and that was surprising in this usually bold house.

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